Where to eat

Casa Carolina is just across the small square from Doña Mica’s place. This is a full-menu restaurant with a very good kitchen. Their Shrimp dishes are fantastic. Here, you can order Lechuguilla, a local distilled spirit brought from primitive stills on the ranches. It’s often said to be good regardless of how it actually impacts the newcomer.

There are many good local Fonda (small, informal restaurant) where you can get excellent regional food just one block away from the lodges. Here are two favorites.

The one from Doña Mica is the most famous. There’s only one table, located on the front porch where they will serve you whatever is cooking on their wood stove today. Doña Mica was a fixture for generations, with a cheap FARO cigarette hanging from her lips, serving beans and stuffed chilies along with ironic comments about her neighbors and life in general. She also knew how to summon ghosts, many of which are reported in Batopilas. According to the people, practically the whole town is inhabited.

Now, a pack of FARO cigarettes appears on her tomb every year on the Day of the Dead, and her restaurant on the porch is run by Velia, her daughter-in-law. Velia doesn’t smoke. You never know who you’ll share the long table with. It could be prisoners taken out of jail for dinner… or one of the countless celebrities, ambassadors, or academics from all over the world who can say they have eaten beans at Doña Mica’s table.