Trails and Wines

Cusárare waterfall

Early, the first rays of the sun penetrate the coolness of the morning.

A sign on a piece of wood in front of my room reads: “Cascada de Cusárare 3 km”; it invited me to walk downstream without thinking about breakfast.

My guide…. a girl who appeared as if from the morning mist itself.

A few steps away I crossed a stream over a wooden bridge. The path went through the middle of huge rocks in the shade of the pines. I walked among the murmur of the water and the singing of birds that made me happy and calmed me in silence, in word and in mind.

I heard the water falling before I saw it. I went there in the summer, in summer, the river was in full heat. Strong… tender. In an explosion of passion, the river plunged over the cliff without thought of life or death. It burst into the rocks below. Then the water, weary-faced, retreated quietly downstream, leaving the crags astonished and smoking a beacon.

I returned late to the dining room, Marta forgave me with some huevos rancheros with beans.

Duration: two hours.
Difficulty: light.
It is advisable to arrive before 9:00 AM or after 3:00 PM to enjoy the solitude.

Art or craft?

María Torres Ramírez was shy. With some effort, I managed to get some information out of her about the guari (basket) that called my attention. She spent an entire day going to and returning from the cliff where the palm that she uses grows. One color of the basket is made out of an acorn brew, the other one with dye for shoes. The basket is to be used daily at home and it took her 2 days to complete the double weave. The design? “Well, my fingers invent it.”
It is art then! I gave her 3 times what she asked me for the guari. Coming back to my room I felt as a man of great virtue.

Relaxing 4-hour hike. Medium difficulty.

VINO MEGACERO

This wine is more complicated. As it has more time than others in the barrel and in the bottle. Like us, it brings the flavors of its experiences as part of its being. When I tasted it, I noticed that it has more aroma, and people who know about wine say that it is a very complete wine. Jorge Carpizo once said, “The best wine depends more than anything else on your mood and the company. “

Bubble White wine Maria Rose

This is a new offering from the Chihuahuan winery Vitivinícola Chihuahuense del Valle de Encinillas. Ethnologist Fernando Méndez told me that this wine was made as a tribute to Don Eloy Vallina’s mother. She always supported the boys in their dreams and would be especially enthusiastic about the idea of Chihuahua entering the world of fine wines. Maria Rose is evidence of the realization of a family’s dream. With breakfast? Why not!

An abandoned cave

Marcial was waiting for me on the porch at mid-morning. He is Rarámuri. He is my favorite guide because he is cheerful and very patient with my slow walking.

We started up the hill, through narrow paths, between pines and large rocks, we reached the first table, from where we could see the town of Cusárare in the distance. Further ahead, we find apple trees, apples of great flavor, Marcial comments, “You have to eat what the earth gives”. A little more than an hour later we arrive at the cave, which is in very good condition, it is impressive to see how they lived in the old days. A few steps away we find the same spring, where the families that inhabited the place for centuries used to drink water.

We continue down the hill until we come across the great Cusarare Waterfall. There, on the gray rocks, a splash of color catches the eye. The neighboring Rarámuri women selling their baskets, belts, and weavings that they make; all different, not a duplicate design.

WINE: ANXELIN SHIRAHZ

Very tasty and pleasant…100% shiraz. When you look for it, you will find it among the best Mexican reds…from Chihuahua, of course!
Breakfast or lunch?

Art or craft?

Relaxing 4-hour hike. Medium difficulty.

Basirecota Hot Spring

You can do it in one day or spend the night there.

My wife, my daughter and I left when the sun was already warming the valley. We crossed the river and passed the already dry Rarámuri cornfields in Nawírachi el Valle del Canto. Then, how we sweated climbing up to the mesa! There at the top we stopped. The refreshing air hummed through the pines. On the mesa to the west we passed Rarámuri ranches. Our guide Calixto explained to us, that the Rarámuri home is considered all fenced in, including the corrals, and it is not good to take pictures of the house which serves mostly as a family dormitory. We felt like we were in another world.

We descended an unnamed ravine, sliding a lot, to the river where Calixto unloaded the donkey. We camped in front of a cave. My Señora Elsa went a short distance to look for a natural hot springs tub. The cook Paula took care of lighting the fire, leaving me alone in the cave where I laid out my blankets for the night. While Calixto was tending to the chicken on the disc, Paula was making tortillas by hand on the comal. I noticed the centuries-old smut on the cave ceiling.

“I am in the room of the indigenous people. How many people lived here. This is how they lived and this is how they live.” It was the moment when I lost touch with my daily life. As if at a very great distance, I was able to consider my civilization, my culture and my place in it. Of the rest of the excursion, of the night in the cave, of the very difficult walk back to Bosques along the river, I remember very little. I was more living than thinking. My camera was locked in its case. I stored all the images in my heart.

Well that said, we have to recognize that reality is shaped by our filters and my 19 year old daughter, who is not a hiker had a very different experience. “We went to the curse canyon. I was worried about taking care of some rattlesnakes that might jump out at me during the hike, we went up a path only suitable for goats, I didn’t sleep from worrying that a rattlesnake might have decided to accompany me in my sleeping bag.” Well, instead of joining us on the next hike, she says she’s going to enjoy a day of luxury by the fireplace, with some special drinks from the Encinillas house, some snacks prepared by Maria, and a good book by Isabel Allende.

This hike can be done in one or two days, spending the night in front of the cave, next to the hot springs.
Difficulty: Ch****dera.

VINO HACIENDA ENCINILLAS

It’s perfect for me when I want to drink wine in the evening with my wife, friends or family.Chatting on the porch or in front of the fireplace. With cheese or alone. Very tasty. Don Eloy doesn’t play games. When he started, he decided to follow the example of Casa Madero in Coahuila and hired the best sommelier! For me, his award-winning wines were superior to many, however, as new and relatively unknown, they do not command the price they deserve. What do you think?

Copper Canyon´s Adventure Park

For something different in contrast to nature I wanted to see how nature can be combined with the modern. It is possible. I’m going to see.

Gustavo is now my companion, Here my feeling is very different, because apart from the wonderful view, in El Divisadero, the modernity is evident in the Barrancas Adventure Park. modernity is evident in the Barrancas Adventure Park in the cable car ride, we arrived at the station of the Mesa de Bacajípare, I had the impressive panoramic view of the union of 3 Barrancas; Urique, Tararecua and the one of El Cobre. We took a 20 minute break to appreciate this beauty, this tour takes approximately 10 minutes, in only two hours, I had time to do the longest zip line in the world, ZipRider style; and a Circuit of seven zip lines of almost 5 km of travel.

About that, you have to report…. Hijole! Hijole! Hijole! Hoooooliiiiii S**t! To be frank, after the zip line, I rested my nerves and didn’t go on the Via Ferrata, which includes rappelling, rock climbing and a small hanging bridge. suspension bridge. Instead, I opted to eat some delicious enchiladas at the Barranco Restaurant where there is a spectacular glass floor.

Duration: 8 hours

VINO LA CASONA.

Of the young wines, I must say that La Casona is considered friendly. I mean, it goes with everything… chicken, meat, pasta, and of course, Mexican food! With the typical mountain dish, machaca and potatoes, it goes very well with this friendly fruit from the Encinillas Valley vineyard.

Arareko Lake, Valleys of the frogs, mushrooms and monks. (motor tour)

After so much walking, I enjoyed the idea of relaxing and letting the mechanical horses take me to see the scenery. It is surprising and pleasing to find a lake in the middle of the forest, in fact, in the middle of huge stones carved by water and air over the centuries. Water, pine trees and a blue sky that I had not known before, there were exactly seven white clouds.

Near the community of San Ignacio with its Mission, we continued on a dirt road to the valley of the mushrooms, where the visual effect photograph carrying a large rock is always a must, we arrived at a small church, the Mission of San Ignacio and from there we went to the rock formations, now forming large frogs. We continued inland to reach the best view for me, El Valle de Los Monjes, large pointed rock formations that resemble standing monks, hence the name we chabochis (hairy faces).

The Rarámuri, an agrarian race, are always focused on the fertility of all things. They call these rocks Bisabírachi, in reference to the resemblance to certain things already well prepared to perform certain reproductive duties. Our Rarámuri neighbors are not without their sophisticated yet mischievous sense of humor.

In this excursion, because of its proximity to Creel, I asked the driver to leave us for a while in the main street which is the Santo Centro of Chacharalandia. We came back with many treasures! Duration 5 hours.

VINO GRAN RESERVA 3V UN CABERNET SAUVIGNON-MERLOT-TEMPRANILLO.

From the house of Madero. Established since 1580, the first formal vineyard established in the new world, they sure know their business! Their knowledge is evident in this bottle containing a blend of 3 grapes with a minimum of 3 summers in barrel and another 2 in bottle.

Petroglyphs & Cusarare waterfall

Antonio is my guide, a few steps from Bosques is the painted cave. It is adorned with Rarámuris cave paintings in good condition. The landscape is completed by some goats in the corral. We continue uphill until we reach another cave, which was used as a house with kitchen area, bedroom, fireplace, and area to store grains, it is also adorned with Rarámuris paintings, here there are different spaces such as: bedroom with fireplace, kitchen and a small corral, for me it is the most impressive I have seen. We continue our steps to another cave of smaller size, but great beauty, a little further on, we reach a small valley where we take a short break. We cross the river by a suspension bridge, to continue upstream through the forest to the Cusárare waterfall with its curtain of water. Here luckily it was a day when the locals came to sell their Rarámuri handicrafts, we resumed our way to Bosques where a good wine and cheeses were very gratifying to my palate.

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VINO GRAN RESERVA, UN CABERNET SAUVIGNON

It is not for everybody. It spent a lot of time in the barrel, what has this lady learned or can she be a sir? (The wines are male or female… I will be interested in knowing your opinion when drinking it)

Well, most likely, if she is a lady, her time in intimate contact with wood has not taught her to be submissive. She is rather strong. It is grippy on the palate. She says, “Here I am. Deal with it!”

IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS THE BEST TIME OF THE YEAR TO VISIT BOSQUES?

In life, every decade has its own magic. The beauty of a woman in her 80s is similar to that of a woman in her 20s, it's just different. The same is with the seasons. Spring is dry and the corn is sprouting. In the summer there are the famous sierra thunderstorms: most afternoons there is rain and hail rattling on the tin roof. Everywhere it gets green and blooming. Hummingbirds swarm the feeders and roses. In the fall, in the fields, corn is harvested among the pines. After a winter night, you can wake up to the surprise of snow-laden pine branches and enjoy cozy moments by the fire in the fireplace or the warmth of the wood stove. I like winter better as hiking is easier in the daytime temperature of about 15 degrees Celsius. But it all depends on your personal taste.

What are 3 fun facts about Bosques that many people are surprised to learn?

The Bosques building is built on Rarámuri land under an agreement with the Cusarare Ejido. The 263 families of the ejido receive rent each year. Felpar towels are from Turkey. Conceptualize forests for people like me, who need a place to go to relax inside and out. Sometimes the best relaxation is effort...sometimes not. What is the most unique experience Bosques has put together for a guest? One couple wondered aloud, "What's life like in a cave?" Gustavo gathered the kids and they took a bed and a flashlight to a nearby cave. The couple's reaction? And their reaction after the night in a primitive cave? "A mystical experience beyond words...and nowhere to pee."

What would be your 3 ideal days in Bosques Hotel?

Arriving at sunset and sitting on the porch listening to the river without doing anything... soaking up the atmosphere, the air, the sound of the river, watching the passage of the Raramuri on their way back home. Then, tasting a good local wine while enjoying a good dinner. The next morning, I would take a short hike to the waterfall or to the nearby cave which is a small archaeological site beautifully preserved. In the afternoon, I would go out to visit the indigenous church in the village of Cusarare, where Father Verplanken collected more than 40 religious paintings from mission churches throughout the highlands for safekeeping. Canvases achieved some by innocent hands and others by master painters whose names are preserved in history. The second day acclimatized to the altitude, I would select the most ambitious hike to the hot springs of Basirecota, a real adventure, returning late to collapse in bed before a hot shower. I would choose one of the exclusive wines of the Encinillas valley for dinner and to celebrate my achievement, I would join my friends around a campfire and see if Gustavo, could perhaps procure some clandestine libation in a cloudy jug to cap off the adventure.